Filament Material Guide

Find your perfect filament

Every filament is a trade-off between ease of printing, strength, flexibility, heat resistance, and finish. This guide breaks down the most common 3D-printing materials, with datasheet-verified print settings, honest pros and cons, and what each one is genuinely good for, so you can match the right material to your project.

7 Materials covered
Datasheet-verified specs
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Material Difficulty Nozzle Bed Strength Flexibility Heat Best for
PLA Beginner 190-220 °C 50-60 °C (optional) Models, prototypes, décor
PETG Intermediate 230-250 °C 70-85 °C Functional & outdoor parts
TPU Intermediate 210-240 °C 25-60 °C Flexible, grippy parts
ASA Advanced 240-260 °C 90-110 °C Outdoor & weatherproof parts
ABS Advanced 230-250 °C 100-110 °C Tough indoor & automotive parts
Nylon Advanced 240-270 °C (CF: 280-300 °C) 70-110 °C + adhesive Gears, hinges, wear parts
PC Advanced 250-290 °C 90-110 °C Heat & impact extremes

Polylactic Acid

The easy, everyday filament

Beginner to print Shop PLA

The most popular and forgiving filament. Plant-based, low-warp, and razor-sharp on detail, so it is ideal for models, prototypes, and indoor parts. Its one real weakness is heat: it softens around 55 to 60 °C, so keep prints out of hot cars and direct sun.

Nozzle temp 190-220 °C
Bed temp 50-60 °C (optional)
Enclosure Not needed
Cooling fan 100% (max)
Print speed 40-100 mm/s
Bed adhesion PEI, glass, blue tape, glue stick
Drying Rarely needed
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Easiest material to print
  • No enclosure or heated bed required
  • Very low warping
  • Crisp detail & great surface finish
  • Widest color & finish range
  • Plant-based & low odor

Trade-offs

  • Brittle, with low impact resistance
  • Softens around 55 to 60 °C
  • Poor UV and outdoor durability
  • Not reliably food-safe as printed
  • Cannot be acetone-smoothed

Best for

Display models & figurinesMiniaturesPrototypes & concept partsIndoor décor (vases, planters)Cosplay propsLow-stress jigs & fixturesEducation & classroom
Pro printing tips
  • Run a temperature tower (around 200 to 210 °C) to dial in your specific brand and color.
  • Part-cooling fan at 100% (turn it off for the first layer).
  • Keep the bed 50 to 60 °C and wipe it with IPA for clean adhesion.
  • If you see stringing or popping, dry the spool at around 45 to 50 °C for 4 to 6 hours.
  • Add a brim for tall, small-footprint parts.

Skip it for: Hot cars, direct sun, and load-bearing or high-impact parts.

Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol

The tough, watertight all-rounder

Intermediate to print Shop PETG

The do-it-all bridge between easy PLA and tough ABS. It is impact- and moisture-resistant, slightly flexible, and weather-capable, which makes it great for functional parts. The catch is stringing, so dry filament and tuned retraction make all the difference.

Nozzle temp 230-250 °C
Bed temp 70-85 °C
Enclosure Helpful, not required
Cooling fan 30-50% (off layer 1)
Print speed 40-60 mm/s
Bed adhesion Textured PEI; glue stick as release
Drying Dry 60-65 °C, 4-6 h
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Tough & impact-resistant (about 2x PLA)
  • Better heat resistance than PLA (around 70 °C)
  • Good moisture, chemical & UV resistance
  • Low warping, no enclosure needed
  • Excellent layer adhesion for strong parts

Trade-offs

  • Strings & oozes, so it needs tuning
  • Hygroscopic, absorbs moisture
  • Can bond too hard to bare glass or smooth PEI
  • Supports are hard to remove cleanly
  • Softer fine detail than PLA

Best for

Functional & mechanical partsOutdoor parts & signageProtective cases & enclosuresWatertight vases & funnelsSnap-fit brackets & clipsDrone frames
Pro printing tips
  • Dry the filament first. Moisture is the number-one cause of stringing.
  • Run a temperature tower (around 230 to 250 °C); cooler means less drool.
  • Use a textured plate, or a glue-stick release layer on smooth PEI to protect it.
  • Use less first-layer squish than PLA (raise the Z-offset slightly).
  • Enable combing and disable Z-hop to cut stringing.

Skip it for: Fine miniatures, steep overhangs, and sustained heat above roughly 70 °C.

Thermoplastic Polyurethane

Flexible, grippy, near-unbreakable

Intermediate to print Shop TPU

A rubber-like filament that bends, stretches, and absorbs impact without breaking, with outstanding abrasion resistance. Hardness runs on the Shore A scale (85A soft up to 98A firm); 95A is the easy-printing standard. Print slowly, ideally with a direct-drive extruder.

Nozzle temp 210-240 °C
Bed temp 25-60 °C
Enclosure Not needed
Cooling fan On (about 50-100%)
Print speed 15-40 mm/s (slow)
Bed adhesion PEI / glass; sticks easily
Drying Dry 70 °C, 7-8 h
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Exceptional flexibility & elasticity
  • Outstanding abrasion & impact toughness
  • Doesn't warp, so no enclosure needed
  • Sticks to the bed easily
  • Good oil, grease & chemical resistance
  • Wide hardness range (85A to 98A)

Trade-offs

  • Soft filament buckles, so direct drive is preferred
  • Must print slowly
  • Very retraction-sensitive (stringing)
  • Hygroscopic, needs drying
  • Softens around 60 °C
  • Hard to sand or smooth

Best for

Phone cases & bumpersGaskets, seals & O-ringsTool & handle gripsWheels, tires & rollersVibration dampeners & feetWearables & straps
Pro printing tips
  • Use a direct-drive extruder; 95A is the easiest grade to start with.
  • Print slow and steady, around 20 to 30 mm/s.
  • Minimise retraction (0.5 to 1.5 mm) to avoid clogs and stringing.
  • Keep a smooth filament path with no sharp bends from spool to extruder.
  • Dry at around 70 °C and feed from a dry box.

Skip it for: Rigid load-bearing parts, fine detail, and heat above roughly 60 °C.

Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate

Built for the outdoors

Advanced to print Shop ASA

ABS's tougher, UV-stable cousin: it resists sunlight, weather, and yellowing, which makes it the go-to for functional outdoor parts. It prints much like ABS, with high temperatures, easy warping, and styrene fumes, so an enclosure and good ventilation are essentially required.

Nozzle temp 240-260 °C
Bed temp 90-110 °C
Enclosure Required
Cooling fan Off / very low
Print speed 40-60 mm/s
Bed adhesion PEI + glue stick; use a brim
Drying Dry 70-80 °C, 6-8 h
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Excellent UV, weather & color stability
  • Good strength, stiffness & impact toughness
  • Solid heat resistance (Tg around 98 °C)
  • Chemical resistant & acetone-smoothable
  • Only mildly hygroscopic

Trade-offs

  • Warps & cracks without an enclosure
  • Emits styrene fumes, so ventilate
  • High temps, not beginner-friendly
  • Low cooling limits fine overhangs
  • Large brand-to-brand setting variation

Best for

Outdoor functional partsAutomotive exterior trimWeatherproof enclosuresGarden & planter partsExterior signage & mountsRC & drone bodies
Pro printing tips
  • Use an enclosure with a warm, draft-free chamber.
  • Print on a hot PEI bed with glue stick and a wide brim.
  • Keep the fan off, or at 25% or less only for overhangs.
  • Ventilate, because ASA gives off styrene fumes.
  • Dry at around 70 to 80 °C and tune settings to your specific brand.

Skip it for: Open-air printing in living spaces, beginners, and flexible parts.

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene

The classic impact-tough engineering plastic

Advanced to print

Tough, heat-resistant, and acetone-smoothable, ABS has been the long-time standard for functional and automotive parts. It warps badly without a heated enclosure and emits styrene fumes, so ventilation is a must. For anything that lives outdoors, ASA is the better, UV-stable choice.

Nozzle temp 230-250 °C
Bed temp 100-110 °C
Enclosure Required
Cooling fan Off / very low
Print speed 40-60 mm/s
Bed adhesion PEI + glue stick / ABS slurry; brim
Drying Dry 80 °C, 4-8 h
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Tough, high impact resistance
  • Good heat resistance (survives a hot car)
  • Acetone vapor-smoothable to a glossy finish
  • Sands, paints & glues well
  • Ductile, so it bends before breaking
  • Inexpensive & widely available

Trade-offs

  • Warps & cracks without an enclosure
  • Emits styrene fumes, so ventilate
  • Needs a hot bed (around 100 °C)
  • Yellows & weakens under UV outdoors
  • Not food-safe; about 1 to 2% shrinkage affects accuracy

Best for

Functional & mechanical partsAutomotive & in-car partsEnclosures & electronics housingsSnap-fit assembliesTools, knobs & handlesSmooth glossy finished parts
Pro printing tips
  • Use an enclosure and avoid drafts for the entire print.
  • Bed at 100 °C or higher on clean PEI with glue stick, and add a brim.
  • Keep the part-cooling fan off or very low.
  • Ventilate or filter the fumes on every print.
  • Account for roughly 1 to 2% shrinkage on dimension-critical parts.

Skip it for: Outdoor or UV exposure (use ASA), food contact, and beginners.

Polyamide (PA)

The engineer's tough, wear-resistant workhorse

Advanced to print

The go-to for durable, low-friction, fatigue-resistant parts like gears, hinges, and bushings. It is incredibly tough, but it is also the most moisture-hungry filament there is, so drying is non-negotiable. Carbon-fiber grades (PA-CF) add stiffness and heat resistance but need a hardened nozzle.

Nozzle temp 240-270 °C (CF: 280-300 °C)
Bed temp 70-110 °C + adhesive
Enclosure Recommended / required
Cooling fan Off / very low
Print speed 30-60 mm/s
Bed adhesion Garolite or glue stick; brim
Drying Critical: 70-90 °C, 6-12 h
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Best impact toughness of the rigid filaments
  • Excellent abrasion & wear resistance
  • Low-friction and self-lubricating
  • Great fatigue life, ideal for living hinges
  • Good chemical resistance
  • Takes dye beautifully

Trade-offs

  • Extremely hygroscopic, so it must be dried
  • Warps about as much as ABS
  • Weak Z-axis (interlayer) strength
  • Needs high temps + an all-metal hotend
  • Hard to glue; CF grades are abrasive

Best for

Gears & sprocketsLiving hinges & snap-fitsBushings, bearings & slidersTooling, jigs & fixturesAutomotive & drone partsStructural parts (PA-CF)
Pro printing tips
  • Dry first, always: 70 to 90 °C for 6 to 12 hours, and print from a dry box.
  • Use an enclosure for unfilled nylon and keep the part fan off or low.
  • Adhere with Garolite or a glue stick, plus an 8 to 10 mm brim.
  • Follow your brand's bed temp: hot (around 80 to 110 °C) for most, or low (25 to 50 °C) with Polymaker's anti-warp system.
  • For carbon-fiber grades, fit a hardened-steel 0.6 mm nozzle.

Skip it for: Wet or outdoor service, tight tolerances if undried, and fine miniatures.

Polycarbonate

Maximum strength and heat resistance

Advanced to print

One of the strongest, most heat-resistant desktop filaments, and among the most demanding to print. It shrugs off impact and stays rigid past 110 °C, with optical clarity in pure grades. Expect very high temperatures, a sealed enclosure, and serious moisture sensitivity.

Nozzle temp 250-290 °C
Bed temp 90-110 °C
Enclosure Required (sealed)
Cooling fan Off / minimal
Print speed 30-60 mm/s
Bed adhesion PEI + glue release; brim
Drying Critical: 70-90 °C, 6+ h
Ease of printing
Strength
Flexibility
Heat resistance
Durability
Detail

Strengths

  • Outstanding strength & impact toughness
  • Best-in-class heat resistance (HDT up to about 135 °C)
  • Optical clarity in pure grades
  • Very rigid
  • Annealable for even more heat resistance

Trade-offs

  • Very high temps, so it needs an all-metal hotend
  • A sealed enclosure is essentially required
  • Strongly hygroscopic
  • Warps aggressively; oozes & strings
  • Fumes need ventilation

Best for

Heat-exposed housingsHigh-impact mechanical partsTransparent lenses & light guidesLoad-bearing structural partsAutomotive under-hood partsProtective equipment
Pro printing tips
  • Dry first (70 to 90 °C, 6+ hours) and print from a dry box.
  • Use a sealed, pre-heated enclosure.
  • Print on a roughly 100 to 110 °C PEI bed with a glue release layer and a brim.
  • Keep the fan off for pure PC, or minimal for blends.
  • An all-metal hotend is required; use a hardened nozzle for carbon-fiber blends.

Skip it for: Beginners, open-frame printers, and flexible parts.

Beyond the basics

Carbon & glass-fiber composites

Adding chopped carbon or glass fiber to a base plastic (PLA-CF, PETG-CF, PA-CF) boosts stiffness and dimensional stability and gives a premium matte finish. It does not automatically make parts stronger, though, and it does make them more brittle. The fibers are abrasive, so a hardened-steel, ruby, or tungsten-carbide nozzle is required. The base polymer still sets the temperature and enclosure needs.

Soluble support materials

For complex overhangs printed on a dual-extruder machine, support filaments dissolve away cleanly. PVA dissolves in plain water but is extremely moisture-sensitive; HIPS dissolves in d-limonene (a citrus solvent) and pairs naturally with ABS and ASA.

A note on accuracy

Print settings vary by brand, color, and printer, so always start from your spool's label and fine-tune. The values here are typical consumer ranges, cross-checked against manufacturer datasheets.

Still not sure what to print?

Start with PLA for looks and PETG for function. Together they cover most projects. Reach for ASA when it lives outdoors, or TPU when it needs to flex. Browse the range, or get in touch and we'll help you choose.

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